Early saturday morning, heading with my bicyle for the famous park northwest of Beijing. I need to leave the urban surroundings at least once a week. The weather ist fine. In the cool mornig air I choose a route from my apartment strait north following the Ritan Street. After reaching almost the 3rd ring road I find a sign for public toilet. The doorman of a public school kindly shows me the way. The toilet room is unexpectantly clean. On my way back the nice doorman offers me a cigarette and wants to chat in Chinese about German footballl and Syrian refugees. Later his wife joins us. With the help of my Pleco dictionary I find most of the words. My Chinese is still underdeveloped.
Following 3rd ring until Haidian district, then turning north passing the university area. The sun is getting more intense now. It is almost ten o’clock. Riding westwards I recognize the Old Summer Palace (Yuan Ming Park) to my right. Soon after the car traffic gets very dense in the roads surrounding the Summer Palace. It is the big touristic attraction in these early autumn days. I find a small bridge on the north east corner of the area to cross, finding my way to Xiang Shan Road. It is still another six-seven kilometers to ride.
About half way I pass the Beijing Botanical Garden. It does not seem so interesting with its rather modern Chinese interpretaton of garden architecture and colour combinations regarding the flowers arrangements. When entering the small city beneath the Xiang Shan (Fragrant Hill) Park I realize having been here before, more than twenty years ago. Driving up the old main road, plastered with huge stone plates memories are recalled. Lots of touristic shops and small restaurants on both sides. The only problem I have, is finding a decent place to park my bicylcle. I am sure that they take money for that as well!
After not being successful in the car parking lot: A lady with sunglasses and mouth-cover just shaking her head when I ask if it is okay to lock my bike to the metal fence. Further down a side road I might be more lucky. When just about to park my bike next to a motorcyle I am surrounded by neighbours eagerly discussing the matter. One lady wants me to take the bike away, whereas an old man insists that it is quite okay to leave the bike next to the wall. Another old lady laughts and says something about taking five Renminbi (local currency) for that service. I laugh and make my way up to the entrance of the park. Hoping to find my bicyle all right when I return …
Even I took a snapshot of a park map, I would not realize which is which site, because on the map all names are in Chinese (tourist map of Fragrant Hills Park in English). So I just walk about reaching a pond with a beautiful bridge, giving an excellent, almost panoramic view on the scenery including the more remote hills. I settle to capture the landscape in my sketchbook using a black ballpoint pen. Later I will do a watercolour based on my photo reference. I am just starting to get into drawing and painting again. It is quite hot sitting in the midday sun. Once in a while someone stops to look over my sholuder an comment on work in progress. Not molesting, always very positive and respecting.
I drink too little. Not that I am miserly about buying water. It is just, that I forget to drink. But I nibble on some grapes and small delicious pears. A bit higher up I find first a palace and then even higher the tall pagoda. Somewhere in the woods I hear a female voice singing Chinese traditional songs. I try to get closer following a small footpath through the bushes but fail because the track is getting too steep, clayey and narrow. Later I find myself in a temple – its is all temples here – with a big pond full of Koi carps being fed by both young and old.
Finally I decide to climb the hill top. Most people take the cable car. This seems to be quite adequate in the hot weather – I believe it is not less than 26°C. The stone steps are steep. Even the people descending are sweat and breathless. I try to keep pace with a sporty man in his thirties. He is bare breasted while I carry a backpack. I manage to keep his speed for quarter of an hour. Then I have to rest. Magnificent views. After more than half an hour I finally reach the top with the cable car station. I am completely overheated and soaked with sweat. The cool breeze comforts me. After taking only a short rest enjoying the overall views I make my way down again. There are numerous paths all leading towards the valley and then to one of the gates.
Riding almost six hours on my bicycle, covering almost 60 kilometers, climbing around in the park for more than three hours including reaching the almost 500 meter peak – I am more than happy to arrive safely in my apartment, take a shower, rest and digest the input …
